The Daniel Boone National Forest is truly the heart of climbing in the Red River Gorge. Often referred to as the “North Gorge,” this is where modern sport climbing in the Red began, including the first bolted route, To Defy the Laws of Tradition, at Left Flank. Today, the DBNF, which also includes the Clifty Wilderness, hosts a massive variety of climbing, from classic steep sport routes to remote, high-quality traditional lines tucked deep in the forest. With dozens of crags spread across the landscape, climbers could spend a lifetime here exploring everything from well-traveled testpieces to quiet backcountry gems.
Browse the full area listing on Mountain Project (Northern Gorge), and check current rules on the Forest Service’s Red River Gorge recreation page.
Parking
Most DBNF crags have designated parking areas, typically small roadside pull-offs. While many are accessible with 2WD vehicles, spaces are limited and fill quickly on busy days. Always park fully off the roadway, avoid blocking gates, and be mindful of traffic along KY-715 and surrounding forest roads.
Permits & Fees
Day-use climbing in the Daniel Boone National Forest does not require a parking pass. However, if you plan to camp overnight anywhere within the Red River Gorge Geological Area, you are required to have a DBNF parking pass. These passes are easy to get and can be purchased at many local gas stations, outfitters, and businesses near the Gorge. Always display your pass properly to avoid citations.
Seasonal Considerations
Winter climbing in the Gorge is beautiful, but it can come with longer approaches. Several forest roads close to motorized vehicles during most of the winter months, which may add hiking distance to certain crags:
- Forest Roads 9, 9A, and 9B – Indian Creek
- Forest Road 10 – Chimney Top Road
- Forest Road 24 – Rock Bridge Road
- Forest Road 39 – Tunnel Ridge Road (past Gray’s Arch)
Foot travel is still allowed, but plan extra time and mileage when these closures are in effect.
Climbing Style
The North Gorge blends steep, pocketed sport routes with more technical climbing on vertical and slabby terrain, often with a little more space between bolts for a slightly headier feel. It’s also the heart of trad climbing in the Red, offering everything from classic moderates to bold sandstone testpieces.
Must-Try Routes
Traditional
| Route | Grade |
|---|---|
| Bedtime for Bonzo | 5.6 |
| Arachnid | 5.8 |
| Rock Wars | 5.9 |
| Welcome to Ole Kentucky | 5.13a |
Sport
| Route | Grade |
|---|---|
| To Defy the Laws of Tradition | 5.10a |
| Super Dario | 5.11 |
| Eye of the Needle | 5.11b |
| Mercy the Huff | 5.12b |
| Appalachian Spring | 5.13a |
Best For
Trad climbers, experienced sport climbers, and those looking for crags with a more adventurous feel.
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